When most people think of Colombia, they think of cocaine. And their next thoughts are of Pablo Escobar. Not too long ago, the people of Colombia lived their lives in fear. Gang and criminal violence plagued the city of Medellin from the 1970’s thru the early 90’s in the form of shootings, kidnapping, and bombings. Most of this violence was the result of the battle for power and money between the Medellin and Cali drug cartels, and towards the end, Pablo Escobar’s paranoia about being extradited to the United States. Over 27,000 murders in 1992 put Colombia on the map as the worlds murder capital. In the height of his power, Escobar and his cartel were raking in more than $60 million a day. The cocaine he was exporting accounted for over 80% of the worlds cocaine market. He was the wealthiest criminal in history. How did he do it? During my time in Medellin, I sought out the answers and was shocked to discover that his brother(his “accountant” and confidant throughout his life) was living a quiet life in the house where Pablo was shot and killed.
*Left: photos of Pablo Escobar hanging in his brothers home. Right: A bomb that was hidden by Escobar’s men in this statue killed over 15 people in a public park in Medellin.
I had heard about tourists being able to meet Roberto Escobar, Pablo’s brother, in Medellin and was determined to do so myself. The first thing I asked the hostel I was staying at in El Poblado was “how can I go on the Escobar tour?!?” For $20 I could go the next day. I couldn’t wait. A van picked me up the next morning with about ten other tourists and drove us to Roberto’s home. Our guide explained to us that Pablo first started smuggling coca paste across the border in the trunk of his car. Before long, he was flying planes into Panama and the Bahamas in order to smuggle it into the US. In order to maintain power, he developed a policy of “plato o plomo” translated to silver or lead. Meaning either take a bribe or take a bullet. If you helped him, he helped you. If you betrayed him, he killed you and your family. This policy afforded him immense wealth, to the point where he and his brother were literally burying barrels of cash in the ground. They made the money “clean” by buying real estate. Pablo indulged in collections of cars and exotic animals, which he kept at his infamous Hacienda Napoles(Johnny Depp make a visit here in the movie Blow).
*Left: A desk and hidden closet where cash was hidden in the house. Right: Pablo and his son in Washington DC on vacation and a photo of Hacienda Napoles hanging on his brothers wall.
As he gained all of this wealth and power, he caught the attention of the Colombian government and police. He used bribes and violence to remain safe, but decided that he would take matters into his own hands. In 1982 he was elected into the chamber of representatives of Colombia. How was a drug lord elected into a government position? Simple, Colombia suffered from extreme poverty, so Pablo donated millions to the poor. He built hospitals, schools, sports fields and homes for the poor. Many people adored him for his Robin Hood behavior, and in return the people he helped did their best to protect him. His main goal in entering public office was to protect himself from being extradited to the United States. One of his biggest fears was being sent to a prison in America.
Escobar used violence to prevent presidential candidates he was opposed to from entering into office. He bombed an Avianca flight, backed the storming of the Colombian Supreme Court and was allegedly responsible for the assassination of Luis Carlos Galen(a presidential candidate). After the assassination, the Colombian and US governments wanted him behind bars. Eventually, in 1991, he made an agreement with the Colombian government, and entered his own prison, La Catedral. It was a mansion in the hills of Medellin, where he was confined but was allowed to have guests come and go, and remain living a life of luxury, albeit on house arrest. Pablo couldn’t resist continuing his business and before being taken from his prison home, he escaped. For a year and a half the Colombian and US governments searched for him. He spent months in the jungle running and hiding from authorities. In December 1993, they finally found him in his mothers home in Medellin, now Roberto Escobar’s home. He was shot and killed on the roof trying to escape. His family insists that he fired the shot himself, committing suicide rather than succumbing to a police bullet, but police insist it was their gun that made the fatal shot. Regardless, a criminal, a hero to the poor, and a worldwide legend was gone.
*Left: Bullet holes in Roberto’s house. Right: Pablo’s grave in Medellin.
After touring the house and hearing all about Pablo’s life, we were able to meet his brother Roberto. Our tour guide explained that he was blind in his right eye as a result of a letter he received in prison that blew up upon opening. As he approached our group I was standing on his right. He introduced himself to each person and when he got to the person next to me he stopped. I waved hello and he started laughing, he hadn’t been able to see me because of his blind eye. He apologized and told me he was looking for a new wife…we all laughed and sat down in the living room together to ask questions.
*Roberto and I in front of a Wanted sign for him and his brother.
If you’re interested in learning more about Roberto, I picked up his book The Accountants Story and it’s filled with more stories of his and Pablo’s life.
You may be wondering how safe Colombia is now? I spent a month there, traveling from the Amazon to Cartagena, Santa Marta, Taganga, Parque Tyrona, and Medellin. I never felt unsafe and the people were wonderful. So full of life and eager to help. Although the police will try and stop you at night, attempting to catch a tourist with a bag of coke for a small bribe. However, there is less violent crime in Colombia now than in Mexico, and Peru now produces more cocaine. You can still party your nights away in the cities and see girls with butt implants walking along the streets, BUT you don’t have to be worried about getting kidnapped by a drug cartel..There is so much beauty in Colombia, from the people and culture to stunning mountains, jungles, and beaches. It’s not a very expensive country and flights on Spirit Air can fly you there in less than 7 hours for $130. Seriously, just go, explore, learn, and brush up on that high school espanol.
ellister_yoga 